2017 Europe: Split & Itmoski

10 - 11 September 2017

If you are going to Split from Starigrad direction, do not hesitate to make a stop at Krka Bridge which is located between the Skradin and Šibenik interchanges (43.808°N 15.915°E). It is a 391 metres (1,283 ft) long concrete arch bridge spanning the Krka River at a height of 65 metres (213 ft). It carries the A1 motorway route south of Skradin, in immediate vicinity of Krka National Park.

It was about 7PM when I reached Split and I was welcomed with a nice sunset. Driving in the center of Split was a nightmare as the streets are narrow and some are steep. Worse a lot of them are dead end roads and single carriageways shared by both traffic directions which require backing most of the time. Locating my apartment was a challenge as it was actually situated on slope with no car entrance since there were steps around the houses here. In the end I decided to park my car and located my apartment on feet. Getting an empty parking lot was another challenge.

The Palm was a small apartment run by a lady host who can't speak English. She is kind and helpful. Cookies and juice were served while I waited for the check-in. The room was tiny but clean. I even used the washing machine and the kind host offered laundry basket. I love the cosy balcony which was transformed into a mini kitchen and the roof top where I could enjoy the view over the old town. 

 

I was excited in the next morning as it was a day for the long awaited Blue Cave tour. I waited at the meeting point from 7.30am together with a few foreign visitors who joined the same tour. After more than an hour of waiting there was no sign of pick up and we started to worry. We tried to call the office but no one picked up the call. We asked around and came to realize that all water tours had been canceled due to strong wind. We were disappointed with the tour agency as they should have informed us about the cancellation.

Without the blue tour, I had plenty of time so I relaxed for an hour in a cafe and came across with a place called Itmoski from a magazine. I decided to change my itinerary to visit the old town today, and drop by Itmoski tomorrow before reaching Mostar. I canceled one night at Dubrovnik so I could come back here for Blue Cave tour again next week. 

Split is the second-largest city of Croatia and the largest city of the region of Dalmatia.

Mini grapes, and the bees were flying around

The most prominent landmark here is the Diocletian Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I joined the city tour and I was explained with the history of the Diocletian Palace. Emperor Diocletian, who voluntarily gave up the throne of the Roman Empire, in the turn of the 4th century CE built the palace and after his retirement. The palace was a massive structure and contains not only the palace itself but also buildings, intended for housing military garrison. The ancient fortress has become the old town of Split, with numerous shops, cafes, restaurants and also apartments, located in the old buildings on narrow streets of the palace/fortress.

  

Traditional Dalmatian Choir

“Let me Pass” street. It's only wide enough for one person to fit through at a time

At the heart of the palace is the monumental courtyard known as the Perystile. The Emperor used to entertain visitors in this lavish courtyard. And though the Emperor is long gone, the flow of visitors to his court has only increased: you’ll find tourists gathered around the massive columns and arches with guidebooks and cameras all year round. From old ruins, this place transforms into live music entertainment at night. It is filled with people enjoying the sounds of local band playing music just outside one of the restaurant doors. 

Do check the timing for the guard changing show

The Perystile leads to two fascinating parts of the complex. Stairs take you to an elaborate network of underground vaults; these were used as prisons and torture chambers where Christian saints were persecuted on the Emperor’s command. Today you can buy a selection of local crafts here. It was also one of the scenes you can find in "The Game of Throne". The Perystile also leads up to the Cathedral of St. Dominus. Call it irony or call it karma, the cathedral stands over what was originally built as Diocletian’s tomb. Inside, the cathedral offers a rich collection of art and sculptures from the 14th century.

Right outside the palace gate stands a towering statue of 10th century Croatian leader, Gregory of Nin. They say if you rub his big toe and make a wish, it comes true. I’m waiting for the results on that one.

The Split Old Town is full of charming nooks. Tiny lanes take you past make-shift stalls full of local crafts and cheap souvenirs. They weave in and out of meeting spots like the People’s Square with the Clock Tower and City Hall, Veli Varos (a quiet medieval fishing settlement), and the busy fish market.

I enjoyed climbing the bell tower for the 360 view of Split's Old Town. The climb to the top is up a very narrow winding staircase for most part with one-way traffic. You may have to wait for people coming down/up. At the top are open air sections for viewing the city. Nevertheless the climb is fairly easy for anyone of reasonable fitness. The views are worth the effort. From the top of the tower I could really feel the strong wind and understood why the Blue Cave tour was canceled. 

Bacvice beach was awarded a Blue flag which is a symbol of quality offer and clean sea. I did not come here for swimming as the water was cold. Photoshooting was all I was interested. 

Riva today is a pedestrian heaven, thrusting with Cafés and restaurants, an ideal place for having your morning or afternoon coffee, or for an evening out with friends over drinks. At some nights, there was live band here that could be heard from my apartment from far. 

Cevapi is a grilled dish of minced meat, a type of skinless sausage. It is considered a national dish in Bosnia and Herzegovina and Serbia and are also common in Croatia, Kosovo, Montenegro, Albania, Slovenia, as well as in Republic of Macedonia, Bulgaria, Romania.

The next early morning, I set off to the Blue Lake. Blue Lake lies in a deep sinkhole possibly formed by the collapse of an enormous underground cave. I wasn't really expecting the lake to be extremely blue, but I was expecting it to be somewhat wet. All we got was a dry massive hole due to drought conditions. The hole was impressive though.

Back in the car to the nearby Red Lake, although I had doubts whether it was worth bothering with. Another impressively huge hole, this time with quite a lot of water. Only one problem - it was blue! But we were grateful to see any water at all so it was definitely worth a visit. The sinkhole is named after the reddish-brown color of the surrounding cliffs, colored by iron oxides.

I missed visiting the new UNESCO site, stecci tombstones at Crljivica near Imotski. I only realized this place during my flight back to home country. Stecci were cut from large blocks of limestone and then designed and decorated in different shapes and with various decorative motifs and inscriptions inspired by religion and everyday life connected to local traditions.