2017 Europe: The last day of the trip in Sibenik and Zadar

23 - 24 September 2017

The last day of my entire trip was spent in Krka National Park and Zadar. I stayed overnight at Sibenik and decided to visit the UNESCO listed - Cathedral of Saint James the next morning before moving to Krka National Park. 

The Cathedral of St James in Šibenik (1431-1535), on the Dalmatian coast, bears witness to the considerable exchanges in the field of monumental arts between Northern Italy, Dalmatia and Tuscany in the 15th and 16th centuries. The three architects who succeeded one another in the construction of the Cathedral - Francesco di Giacomo, Georgius Mathei Dalmaticus and Niccolò di Giovanni Fiorentino - developed a structure built entirely from stone and using unique construction techniques for the vaulting and the dome of the Cathedral. The form and the decorative elements of the Cathedral, such as a remarkable frieze decorated with 71 sculptured faces of men, women, and children, also illustrate the successful fusion of Gothic and Renaissance art. Photography is not allwed in the church and here I put a picture of the interior downloaded from internet.  

Krka National Park offers incredible walkways to take you around, over and alongside the water with the most wonderful views. There is a nice circular path at Skradinski Buk falls that can be easily walked in 60 minutes. This place definitely well worths a vist. There water is so clear and green. The entrance was 110kuna per adult. 

After leaving Krka National Park, I stopped at Sabunjar Restaruant after reading online recommendations. It is a local family restaurant with 30 years of experience. 

https://www.tripadvisor.com.sg/Restaurant_Review-g295374-d3479071-Reviews-Sabunjar-Zadar_Zadar_County_Dalmatia.html

I wanted to try Peka, which is a Dalmation dish. So what is a Peka? A Peka is a baked dish with meat and vegetables made in a pot or a tray, the pot is put into the embers of a fireplace, in many houses here in Dalmatia, especially on the country side, you have a special place in the barn or at the ground floor of the house for preparing the Peka.

I ordered veal peka (50 kuna) and fried squids. The veal meat was tender and the potatoes were nice too, rather oily though. The price was reasonable for skillfully prepared Croatian cuisine. Their service was also very professional. At times, the waiter dropped by at my table and asked if everything was fine. I even exchanged our Euro to Kunas with them.

I moved on to Zadar. I parked my car at housing area near Barka Bar & Caffe and took the barkajoli to the city center. For over 800 years these gondoliers have been connecting the two ends of Zadar´s harbour with their small rowboats in any weather conditions, and in so doing have saved the time of their faithful passengers. This tradition has been passed on from father to son for centuries and has survived despite the challenges of modern times. Each trip costs 5 kunas. 

The Greeting to the Sun consists of three hundred multi-layered glass plates placed on the same level with the stone-paved waterfront in the shape of a 22-meter diameter circle. Under the glass conduction plates there are photo-voltage solar modules through which symbolic communication with nature is made, with the aim to communicate with light, just like the Sea Organs do with sound.

Simultaneously with the most beautiful sunset in the world, the lighting elements installed in a circle turn on, and, following a particularly programmed scenario, they produce a marvelous, exceptionally impressive show of light in the rhythm of the waves and the sounds of the Sea organs. I was not at the correct timing to see the light as I arrived at noon.

Sea Organ is situated on the western end of Zadar´s Riva, and can be observed as a differently shaped part of the coast which consists of several stairs that descend into the sea. The organ looks like a series of broad steps leading down into the water, but there´s actually very clever engineering hiding under the surface.The lower steps allow water and air to flow in. That water and air is then funneled into resonant chambers under the steps, and pushed out through the channels on the upper stairs, seen here. These cause the undulating, chime-like notes to be produced. Because the sea is always shifting and changing, the sea organ never sounds exactly the same twice. Each sound you hear is completely unique.

An exploration of Roman Zadar begins at the Forum which was the center of public life. Now, dominated the medieval St Donat church, the Forum is the largest in Croatia and about as large as similar forums in Italy. A row of shops called tabernae once ran along the north and east sides and the foundations are still visible.

Most striking is the decorative column marking the western side of the forum. Notice the chains still visible on the column. During the Middle Ages it was the "pillar of shame" used to punish evildoers.

Continuing on the western side of the Forum, you come to the remains of the Capitolium which was an important temple consecrated to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva. Take a moment to examine the beautifully decorated fragments of capitals on display around the square.

Based on reviews, I decided to try the gelato in Gelateria Eva. Small size cup was only 12kn. It was surely delicious. I ordered one hazelnut, the taste was full and the other one either raspberries or strawberries which was fruity and sour. 

After a short trip at Zadar, I drove back to Zagreb and stayed an overnight here to catch morning flight the next day back to home. The trip lasted for 17 days, I visited 3 countries, 14 cities/towns, 7 main UNESCO sites (could have done another two), 5 national parks, drove 9296km on the opposite side and collected 11 immigration stamps.

2017 Europe: The Magical Blue Cave Tour

22 September 2017

I was back to Split again after Dubrovnik for the Blue Cave Tour. The weather was perfect for the tour this time. The tour included 5 islands which were Blue Cave, Stiniva bay, Green Cave, Blue Lagoon and Hvar. There were about 10 persons in the tour including the tour guide and driver. We rode on a speedboat to travel between islands. Riding a speedboat was thrilling, with lots of twists, turns and splashy actions.

The Blue cave is one of the best known natural beauties on the Adriatic see. This is the best time of the day to see all magic playing between sun and this cave. While sunlight reflects through the water coming from the white floor of the cave and bathes the cave in aquamarine light, objects in the water appear to be silver.

After Blue Cave, the next stop was Stiniva bay on the island of Vis. This uncommon shaped cove makes this place unique. Vis is the farthest inhabited island from the Croatian mainland; beyond Brac and Hvar, it is more than a two-hour ferry or catamaran ride from  Split. The beach itself can only be reached by hiking down a steep and narrow path or by taking a taxi boat from the nearby cove at Rukavac. And only those vessels small enough to pass through a gap of a few metres in the cliffs can reach it. 

The next visit was at the Green cave, a big cave which is characteristic because of the sun light coming through a hole on the cave's top, spreading sparkling green light on the sea inside, along the bottom, and walls. 

We continued on to Blue Lagoon, where I finally challenged myself to swim. Crossing to the beach from the jetty on asingle-plank bridge was scary but I made it. The water level here was more shallow so the water temparature was not too cold. There were not much to see in the water, probably I did not swim far enough. 

We stopped on another island (I forgot the name) for an hour. There was a bar restaurant at the beach. I did not want to spend on food/drinks or even for a beach bed, I decided to relax myself under shade where I started to take many bikini photos. 

The last stop of the tour was Hvar. We had 3 hours free time for sightseeing and lunch in the town. The tour guide recommended a restaurant which served good food at reasonable price. It was almost full house when I arrived at the restaurant. I ordered gnocchi pasta which is made from potato, flour and egg and shaped into small ovals. I feel it tastes better than ravioli as I like its texture more. 

After lunch I walked around the town. Hvar old town is rather small and boring in comparison with the old towns in Split, Kotor and Dubrovnik. There is a UNESCO site in Hvar, called Stari Grad Plain which represents a comprehensive system of land use and agricultural colonisation by the Greeks, in the 4th century BC. Unlike better-known sites such as Plitvice Lakes National Park or Dubrovnik, the "wow!" factor is muted here. The neatly laid out paths and walls that crisscross 1377 hectares. If I knew about this place back then I would have visited this place. 

We headed back to Split after Hvar on the same speedboat.